March 21

March 21: Wellington

Today's experience actually began the moment we set foot on the ship at the conclusion of our Tranz Alpine Adventure yesterday. As we climbed from Deck 4 to 5 to join our "dinner family" (we were about a half hour late for dinner!) Captain Klauss began announcement over the P.A. He described how the weather in Wellington was so bad that authorities had advised us to delay our arrival in the morning to allow the weather to at least be suitable for our docking. He detailed the weather by telling us that the forecast for the day's stay in Wellington would be morning temperatures in the upper 40s and a high of 65. Further, it forecasted to rain most of the day - especially upon our arrival. And to add insult to injury, the winds were to be gusting up to 40 mph and the rain was actually being blown horizontally! The weather system causing this greeted us as we moved out into the open waters in the early evening and the ship began it's rocking routine.  Because of our postponed arrival all of the tours and tour departure times had to be adjusted. At first glance you'd think that's no big deal. But you were dealing with over 600 passengers on about fifteen different excursions for an early morning departure off the Radiance of the Seas; and with bus companies for transportation to the excursion; and as in our case the excursion had to return in time to pick up a second wave of groups taking an afternoon version of our tour.  The forecast was very accurate as when we were about ready to exit the ship, the Cruise Director, Bobby, was greeting everyone with the advice to hold on to your hat as the wind was stiff and the rain was coming down. And to be honest, the wettest and windiest part of the day was simply walking down the gangplank into the pier facility. But it wasn't more than a couple of minutes walking time. We were pointed to our small SUV-like vehicle which was to be our 4-wheel drive of choice!

There was room for one up front with the driver and the seven others of us all sat on parallel bench seats along the sides. We found out later that normally only six go per vehicle but one of them had broken down that morning. The start was "rocky" at best as the windows were fogged up and particularly the ladies on board were unhappy that they couldn't see out the windows. Our driver, Chris, was very patient and accomodating; so much so that he stopped at a local store and bought towels to perhaps help with wiping down the windows. But, as he probably knew, by the time we got to the beach and the actual excursion part of the trip, we could all see as well as could be expected in the dismal weather. In spite of the suggestion of some of the "bah-humbugs" on board who thought the entire tour should have been cancelled when we were told that the scenic overlook part of the tour was pointless, the day turned out to be a fabulous adventure. It took about 20 minutes to get outside the city and onto the beach.

And when I tell you we drove along the beach, it was N-O-T like anything you'd imagine a drive along the beach would be. The beach for the most part was largely black rock and gravel filled with pot holes and looming huge rocks from start to finish. If you watch the video it hardly does justice to the constant jostling we "enjoyed" as we brave adveturers went in search of seals. The first "sight" we encountered were the "Red Rocks of Wellington" (see photo at left). Chris told us if you told any locals we had been to the "Red Rocks" they would all know exactly where we meant. An informational centre at the start had offered several legends and myths as to why they were red, but even the scientific explanation had some "holes" in the theory. Next up was our first seal sighting.........

Bruce the seal was just lazily sitting right alongside the road as we drew up. He posed politely for photos and we had accomplished our first goal of sighting a seal! Next we came up on what is known as "Devil's Gate." You can tell from photo at right that it is a narrow passage up a sharp incline. What you cannot see, even in the video I recorded as we went through it, is how very uneven and deep the hole was in the crest between the two "gate walls." The camera hardly simulates the jostling of the vehicle - and the passengers - as we went through the gate. It was amazing that a "car" could make it......and when Chris explained several people drive to and from town this way every day, well....it was just an astounding revelation that people would lead such remote lives!

Next stop was a series of jagged rocks and boulders where the sea was crashing in. Chris had asked if the group wanted to stop at this point or move on a little further. It was my wife Kim who spoke first for the group and offered that since it was not raining at the moment, this would be a good spot to stop. I should also mention at this point that we were the lead vehicle in the caravan, and we later found out that Chris was the veteran and widely accepted best driver of these 4-wheel adventures! Lucky us!  We had no longer exited the vehicle when someone spotted another seal just ahead on the rocks - see him in the photo below. He was not nearly as close and did not seem interested in moving closer. But then again, he never made any move to get away. He stared at us as we took photos and if you watch in the video he even slapped his tail around and shook his upper body in a shimmy style of dance briefly :) We had muffins (which were delicious) and coffee, tea or water at this break point. Then we took off, leaving the other four vehicles behind.  Chris took us over narrow winding gravel and sand paths; past protected sand dunes; and got us to a bend in the beach where we could see up ahead a distant lighthouse in the mist. That was the usual goal of the trip, but he didn't think the weather would permit it today. Within ten minutes we arrived at a creek in the beach and Chris said he could try it, but the fact that we'd probably get stuck and all of us would have to push made him decide not to risk it.

At this point we turned around. With no other vehicles in site Kim asked where they all were. Chris replied that they usually did not travel as a pack because it slowed the trip down, and that he thought most would not venture out this far. Sure enough, about ten minutes into the return trip we came upon another vehicle........and when he asked Chris how far we'd reached, his eyes widened and he repeated the creek and asked in doubt that we could get that far. I was very happy we had the best, and the first vehicle, as I'm not sure many of the others would venture that far like we did.  By the time we'd made the return trip it was generally agreed that the excursion had been a huge success and everyone was very thankful and grateful to Chris for taking us on this adventure. Kim and I were particularly happy with the adventure because, while it's nice to do city tours and find out about how far-away people live, today was a true glimpse into "real New Zealand in the rough." We wouldn't be able to experience many things like this back in the US, especially on Florida beaches! And the weather just made it all the more "eventful!"

The last item of interest came as we approached the pier. Chris pointed out what appeared to be just another cruise ship. He asked if we'd heard of "The World" ship, and we had not. He explained that it was a "personalized" cruise ship only for the very wealthy. A cabin (and you could tell they were GINORMOUS in size) sells for $20,000 A MONTH! Only the rich and famous own them / rent them.....obviously. But here's the kicker. The ship only goes where the passengers WANT to go! There is no set schedule or ports. When you find out it is somewhere and going somewhere else you fly out and join the ship for however long you want. Chris told the story - he never indicated if it was truly factual or just a story - that the President of the United States was on board and made the comment to the captain, "do you know that I'm the President of America?" to which the captain replied in a one-upmanship manner, "yes, but I am the captain of THE WORLD!" :)

Today marked the final stop and excursion of the cruise part of our trip, but luckily for us we still have eight days of our adventure to go! We have two days at sea before we reach Sydney, Australia. There we will be greeted by our Land Tour Director early in the morning to be escorted off the ship. We then begin the final five days by enjoying these four stops and adventures before departing on the fifth day, our last day of the trip, March 29.........